Dyeing Potential of Linen Fabric with Iris Flower Extracts

Ioana Crișan, Roxana Vidican, Adriana Morea, Ștefania Simea

Abstract


Iris flowers have been used for pigments in Europe at least since Middle Ages. Natural coloring agents have many potential uses today and represent safer alternatives to synthetic ones which are common sensitizers posing concern especially for allergy-prone people. In this study, aqueous extract from flowers of Iris pallida and four Iris germanica cultivars were tested on natural linen fabric and resulting colors assessed with RHS chart. Most intense colors were obtained from Iris germanica ‘Black Dragon’, ranging from purple in case of simple flower extract to blue when alum was added. Red flowers produced also a shade from spectrum purple-blue because apparent red is determined by delphinidin with its associated co-pigments having high capacity to bound to fibers and carotenoids that wash off in absence of mordants. Large flowers with high pigment concentration of many current Iris germanica cultivars imply increased efficiency for obtaining valuable coloring agents, with significant potential for eco-friendly textiles.

 


Keywords


pigments, anthocyanins, tepals, textile, paper chromatography, flax fibers.

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